Universal Genève Polerouter: the watch made for the polar route

The Universal Genève Polerouter is a watch with a real story behind it. It was made to mark a new flight path over the North Pole, and its clean, slim design is still admired today.

Made for a polar flight

In the early 1950s, the airline SAS opened a commercial route over the magnetic North Pole between Los Angeles and Copenhagen. SAS asked Universal Genève for a watch to mark it. The first model, spelled “Polarouter”, appeared in November 1954 and was soon renamed Polerouter. Its designer was Gérald Genta, then 23, who later became one of the best-known names in watch design.

The micro-rotor movement

The earliest Polerouters used a bumper automatic, Caliber 138SS. By mid-1955 Universal offered Caliber 215, a micro-rotor movement about 4.1 mm thick. A micro-rotor sits inside the movement instead of on top of it, which is why these watches stay so slim. The design is tied to Büren, and Universal paid it a licence fee for each movement.

Polerouter Date and Caliber 69

A date version arrived in 1958. Later Polerouters moved to Caliber 69 and its 1-69 version, the movement family used in the Polerouter Super and the “NS”, both introduced in 1965. Phillips lists them as powered by Caliber 69 or its 1-69 version.

What to check before you buy

• The dial. It should be signed and clean, with hands and markers that match.
• The case. Genta’s lines are crisp. A case that has been over-polished loses them.
• The crown. An original signed crown with the Universal logo is a good sign.
• Timekeeping. An automatic from this era can run a minute or two a day fast or slow. That is normal.

The Polerouter Date 869119/01 we have in stock

This is a Universal Genève Polerouter Date, reference 869119/01, with a matte black centre and a reflective silver outer ring. It has an automatic Caliber 1-69 micro-rotor movement, a date window at 3 o’clock under a magnified glass, and an original silver crown with the Universal logo.

The case is 34 mm wide, 42 mm lug to lug, with an 18 mm lug width. It is in good working condition with minor signs of use, we timed it before listing, and it comes with a Universal box.

Price: $4,497. One piece, and when it’s gone it’s gone. See the full listing, photos and video.

Wondering whether 34 mm will suit your wrist? Read Will a vintage watch fit your wrist?. Vintage dress watches often wear larger than the number suggests.